Bespoke Shirts – Butterfly gussets

Perhaps a strange topic for a blog, but one of the things I like about English bespoke shirts is the little details that you often find. One of my favourites is the butterfly gusset used by amongst others the Sartorial Executive bespoke shirts.

The gusset in reality probably serves minimal purpose. Yes it does add strength to the seams, but a well made seam as found on true bespoke shirts, with a stitching count of greater than 15 stitches per inch,  should hold up to regular use.

However, a cheap shirt maker is very unlikely to go to the time, trouble and expense to make a gusset like this (which at the end of the day is not even on view; and that is even with the shirt untucked!).

Many other shirtmakers just use a small triangle of fabric as a gusset – whilst probably just as functional, there is something extra special about the gusset.

Turnbull and Asser bespoke shirts academy

The following was an article recently in Drapers. http://www.drapers.com

Gale, who previously headed up the bespoke shirt departments at Sulka and Dunhill, has been charged with creating an ‘in-house academy’ to train potential shirt makers in the art of pattern-making, cutting, sewing and finishing garments such as shirts, pyjamas, dressing gowns and boxer shorts.

Gale will also work on Turnbull & Asser’s bespoke and ready-to-wear collections. Gale is one of the last classically trained master shirt makers and started his career with Turnbull & Asser in the early 1970s before moving to Savile Row where he continued his apprenticeship as a bespoke shirt maker making shirts for the likes of Frank Sinatra, Donald Sutherland, Daniel Craig and David Bailey.

“I am delighted that David has returned to Turnbull & Asser and that we have the opportunity to utilise his undeniable talent and knowledge to teach the younger generation the intricacies in the fading art of shirt making,” said Steven Quin, retail director and Royal Warrant Holder at Turnbull & Asser. “This will further strengthen Turnbull & Asser’s position.”

Hilditch and key sale now on

Quality English shirtmakers Hilditch and Key currently have their annual sale by mail on with great offers on their fantastic range of ready to wear shirts. Check out http://www.hilditchandkey.co.uk

Esquire bespoke shirt feature

This months Esquire magazine was a bespoke issue (which they feature on an annual basis).  Bespoke shirts were represented in this issue by Emma Willis, bespoke shirt maker in Jermyn Street.  Remember, Emma Willis shirts are made in the same workshops and by the same crastmen as Sartorial Executive bespoke shirts.

bespoke suits for bespoke shirt wearers

A quick reminder that for clients of our bespoke shirts they may be interested in the following tailors thatw e work with who supply fantastic made to measure and bespoke suits.

For our clients looking for a bespoke suit to wear with their bespoke shirts we have partnered with two of the finest bespoke tailors in the area. If using either of these tailors please tell them that we sent you.

Roy Duffy Personal Tailoring

Based in Banwell, Somerset, close to Bristol, Roy Duffy previously spent over 6 years working in Savile Row before moving west and setting up his own tailoring business.

Roy is able to provide a visiting service at home and office through the M4 and M5 corridors and Made to Measure prices start from £595 with fully hand made from £1200.

To contact Roy for an appointment:

Tel: 01934 824210
Mobile: 07730 504362
e-mail: duffytailoring@btinternet.com

Rosen and Nathan

based in Birmingham Rosen and Nathan have been established for over 100 years and offer the highest quality tailoring services. They will tailor a suit to you personally, and will help you through a wide range of styles and fabrics. Have your suits ‘made to measure’ at very reasonable costs. Suits from approx. £700.

Visit them at 17 Cannon Street, Birmingham or call 0121 643 4834

Bespoke Shirts – replication service

Do you have a favourite shirt that fits really well but you cannot buy another one similar? No problem our bespoke shirts replication service means that wherever you live in the world we can recreate the shape size and fit of your favourite shirt using the finest cottons and the best construction techniques available.

We will use your shirt as the template from which we will create your personal bespoke shirt pattern and then using the fabric of your choice we will make a bespoke shirt for you copying or modifying any detail of the sample shirt as required.

Whether you want one shirt or more we will replicate your sample shirt for the same price as our normal bespoke shirt service.

Contact us now for full details on 01684 878195 or visit our website at http://www.shirt-style.co.uk

About our fabrics – Alumo

As you probably are aware our premier bespoke shirt  fabrics come from the Swiss mill of Alumo.

Alumo truly are one of the best shirt fabric producers anywhere. For staple shirt fabric then you cannot go wrong with their 120s 2 ply Supraluxe range, a fine quality cloth well woven and sensibly finished leaving a good feel to the cotton when worn.

However, it is for the higher yarn count fabrics that Alumo are justifiably famous. Their 170s and 3 ply ranges are to die for; and the Duecento 200s fabric make probably the best cotton shirt you can buy.

However, for something truly luxurious and different how about a bespoke shirt from their cashmarello range> An interesting mix of Cashmere and cotton – warmoft and comfortable.

Benefits of bespoke shirts

One of the great things about bespoke shirts is that if you have a shirt made that is not quite right then it can be put right to ensure you have the perfect bespoke shirt. A recent client wanted a rounded collar but after we produced it he felt it was too long, so we took the bespoke shirt back and replaced it at no cost to him for a penny round.

Another client had a shirt made and when trying it on it was decided the tail was too short. Get a RTW or MTM shirt and it is no good, but with bespoke we can make him a new one at no cost; it is what really makes bespoke work.

As we have to make him a new shirt we will tweak the collar shape and any other aspects to ensure the new shirt is exactly right.

Go to http://www.shirt-style.co.uk for more details

Lodger Shoes

It is not often that a new company comes along that incorporates the quality and style plus innovation that our clients love. However, this week I stumbled across such a company, in the shape of Lodger Shoes.  Their MD Natahan Brown says the following on their website

At Lodger, we have an irrational passion for beautiful shoes. That’s why we bring you a new Shoe of the Month every 30 days.By releasing a new shoe each month, Lodger designs for every occasion throughout the year. You don’t have to wait for the next season to see something fresh.Every shoe is individually made using the latest technology in a factory with more than one hundred years of shoemaking experience.This mix of continuous design, in combination with cutting edge technology and traditional craftsmanship, makes Lodger Footwear a truly unique shoe company.

This months ’shoe of the month’ is a real winner in our opinion – a variation on the Spectator shoe. A brogue with white body, which on this shoe is made from canvas, a truly unique touch – see picture below.

The price of the shoe? £400 which when you consider the quality and the exclusivity is a steal. If you wear one of our bespoke shirts and don’t feel able to pay £2000 or so for bespoke shoes then we would suggest looking at Lodger. They do do a custom shoe service using CAD machines which is much less than full bespoke.

Find them at the following shop

15C Clifford Street
London W1S 4JZ
United Kingdom

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Monday:	10am – 6pm (GMT)
Tuesday:	10am – 6pm (GMT)
Wednesday:	10am – 6pm (GMT)
Thursday:	10am – 7pm (GMT)
Friday:	10am – 6pm (GMT)
Saturday:	10am – 6pm (GMT)
Sunday:	Closed	12pm – 5pm (GMT)

Tel: +44 (0) 207 287 5455

Top quality bespoke shirts

People often ask how good our bespoke shirts really are. We obviously think they are among the best, and when you consider that our shirts are made in the same workshops, by the same seamsters and to the same standards as another shirtmakers shirts, who was nominated in GQ Style magazine as London’s best bespoke shirt maker and by Nick Foulkes in the Evening Standard as one of the top 5 bespoke shirt makers in the world, then you get an idea how good our shirts are.

We only use the best Italian and Swiss cottons (although we also carry Acorn for those who like the very English patterns they make available). We us very high quality stitching at 16 spi, single needle tailored throughout.

Our Mother of Pearl buttons are not just any pearl buttons, but are made from the finest grade MoP and are elegantly constructed to complement the quality of our shirts.

If you want to see the quality of our bespoke shirts for yourself then call us on 01684 878195 and ask for one of our consultants to bring samples to show you. Alternatively view our website at http://www.shirt-style.co.uk